Amy Pateman looks back at the recent show from Nicolas Ghesquière 
For the Louis Vuitton 2024 Cruise collection, Nicolas Ghesquière took us on an enchanting journey into the shape of water and its fabled mythological creatures.  Framed by Lake Maggiore on Isola Bella, a jewel of an island in northern Italy, backdrops of lush gardens, a quaint fishing village and the grand palace set the tone perfectly for what was to come.
We were told a joyful tale of fantasy and, like the best contemporary tales, this one was populated by aquatic creatures of wonder from the deep in search of discovery and new appreciation.  A narrative of transformation one might say, full of mystical characters with mesmerising shapes that constantly renewed themselves, each leading to the other.
The result was an effortless to and fro between the familiar and the singular; the traditional and the extraordinary.  We were consistently regaled with inspirations of the surrounding lake in all its dark beauty, and the life it was no longer keeping a secret. The use of ocean blues, seaweed greens and coral oranges deepened the connection to the marine world and the treasures it bears.​​​​​​​
As the tale progressed, a lost underwater city began to take shape, populated with beings akin to sirens, beckoning to us with both beauty and allure.  Ghesquière introduced silhouettes with fluid lines in wetsuit-like textures to embellish the theme.  Collars shaped like gills and fins, ‘Empress of the Deep’ headdresses and gowns, and extraordinary iridescent fish scale skirts continued to conjure the mysteries of the sea.
Sometimes the brush stroke patterning reminded us of the art we were witnessing.  Sometimes the giant frilled puffball sleeves and oversized bow detailing took us further into the whimsical.  And, seashell and treasure chest gems motifs added the finishing touches throughout.  By the end, the metamorphosis was complete and we were all happily caught in the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 net.
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