Amy Pateman watches Glenn Martens continue to take over MFW for The Fall Mag
Freedom, pleasure, experimentation, play: all words that perfectly encapsulated Glenn Marten’s desire for democracy, choice and sex positivity. At the centre of the new Diesel AW23 collection at Milan Fashion Week, the cast traversed around a giant pyramid of 200,000 Diesel-branded Durex condoms, sending a powerful message to the label’s vast global community.
“Sex positivity is something amazing. We like to play at Diesel, and we are serious about it. Have fun, respect each other, be safe. For Successful Living!” said Martens of the thesis behind the show. Soundtracked by seductive moans, the imposing installation previewed his unexpected and erotically daring capsule collaboration set to launch in April. Appearing in the show as T-Shirts with the D of Durex swapped for the D for Diesel, the capsule will mark the first time the famous condom brand has created a collection with the fashion world.
Becoming more focused, experimental and ambitious than ever before, the line teases accessibility and, of course, challenges the norms. Diesel’s love affair with denim and leather continued with the presence of bleached moto denim cut low on the hips with whisker detailing, moulded denim tops and moto leathers revealing the classic metal logo.
Distressing took on whole new identities, manifesting in bold cracked textures that revealed new subtexts beneath them. Laugh out loud graphics, faux fur, denim devoré and crinkled plastics added contemporary contours to familiar codes. The extravagance persisted with slip-on heels draped in diamante and denim boots sporting utilitarian pockets. Long chains held silk dresses in place, the iconic metallic D did the same for white bandeau jersey tops, and black jersey gowns flowed from chokers around the neck to lean into the fetish aesthetic.
Yet again, Martens successfully drew us into his world of design by creating a young, irreverent and visually compelling collection already eager to jump right off the shelves. And, while you’re there, keep your eyes peeled for one of the 300,000 free Diesel Durex condoms being given out in the stores globally this April.